Spring break was the perfect time for me to go on a 18 days trip. It was non-peak and slowly moving away from winter so there wasn’t a need to lug around a coat or jacket. Decided to go down the path of nostalgia and re-visited a few of my favourite cities. Started my fat-ventures in Czech Republic right after Iceland, bused down to Hungary, Croatia and Slovenia, flew to Netherlands before busing to Germany and taking a train back to Denmark. It was only my second time travelling solo.
Novice mistakes were made: scammed by tourist traps, overspending on the first few days, overpaying for souvenirs and guided tours, especially in Czech. My few days in Czech was spent on a day trip to Cesky Krumlov (S$150, lunch included) and another to Kutna Hora (S$50 from getyourguide).
FYI: Tipping is expected. Do set aside at least 10% in restaurants and cafes. It is kinda okay to drink tap water in Czech, but I would stick to bottled water.
Day One:
Arrived in Cesky Krumlov at 12pm and spend about 5 hours at this UNESCO-listed medieval town that features over 300 historic buildings. Started my tour at the castle which was pretty impressive actually, and continue to Ceske Budejovice's square. Bear-keeping at the castle goes all the way back to 1707 and the current castle moat is home to two black bears (no I do not approve). But this tradition gives them a reason to hold bear festivals at the castle on Christmas Eve, so…
Anyways, my tour guide showed us some vantage points to take photos of the Renaissance and Baroque houses, with the Black Tower as well. Some free time to grab lunch or just walk around the proclaimed “Europe’s most romantic” town before heading back to Prague. There are a couple of free mini museums scattered around the small town center that you can just pay a visit.
Day Two:
Kutna Hora’s day trip from Prague covers Sedlec Ossuary - the Bone Chapel, Saint Barbara’s Church, Hrádek Castle, Sankturin House, Bohemia's oldest Cistercian Monastery, the Italian Court, medieval Ruthardka Street, the Stone House, and the Plague Column. Have fun at the Bone Chapel ‘cus even at off-peak session, there were people EVERYWHERE. And mind you, the chapel was really small so be expected to be rubbing shoulders every now and then. Fun fact: the church is slowly tilting, leading to fissures and cracks so it is to undergo restoration soon. The Bone Chandelier has already been restored in 2016.
Day Three:
I was too tired out from traveling especially after Iceland that I didn’t do as much as I would have wanted to. Had my morning walk to the bank near Kafka Museum, looked on sadly as people were taking pictures at the Lennon wall (woes of a solo traveller), went for the free walking tour by White Umbrella Tours, and visit the Easter Market at the Old Town Square. I could afford to “waste” my day idling around as it was my 2nd visit to Czech Republic. For first timers, do visit the Prague Castle and the Golden Lane. There was a quaint shop selling bookmarks when I visited in 2014, the purchased bookmarks are still in great conditions. I caught a black light theatre play, Aspects of Alice (S$18) at Ta Fantastika after returning to Prague. It was something different for sure.
Food:
As I was still learning the ropes of travelling, unfortunately food was not a focus then and I did not find fantastic food places in Czech. I did get some recommendations though. Do visit Restaurant U Provaznice and/or U Pinkasu. Both offer really affordable Czech Cuisine and the former have vegetarian options if needed. Mains range from ~S$10-17. Lokál is another recommendation to try traditional Czech dishes.
What to eat in Czech that does not consist of meat (sorry carnivores):
Bramborák – Fried potato pancake with garlic
Vdolečky - Czech traditional doughnuts
Klöße - Bread/potato/cabbage/cheese dumplings
Smažený sýr - Fried cheese with potatoes, widely consumed in Czech and Slovakia
Strudel - A layered pastry with filling easily found in Central and Eastern Europe
Czech spa wafers - Large, thin wafer discs with thinly spread sweet fillings
Trdelník – A spit cake also known as the chimney cake
Palačinky – Crepe-like pancakes with fruits, whipped cream or ice-cream
Buchty – Sweet yeast dough buns that pair well with coffee and tea
Chlebíčky – Similar to smorebrod, open-faced sandwiches with toppings
Solo Scorecard - 2 (1 - Perfect for Solo Travelling, 5 - Would not recommend for solo travellers) Most of the locals are able to speak and understand basic English so you would not get intimidated when travelling. The capital is well-connected to other cities and countries via bus and train, making intercity travel easy as well. Prices are decent and food portions are just right for one person! Though pick-pocketing is a thing so do keep an eye on your belongings.
Side note on how I rate from 1-5: Safety is definitely high on the list, in terms of being along (and female) and going out at night. I do count in transportation and how well-connected the city is, so that even the most direction-clumsy person is able to figure out on their own. I take into consideration the prices and food portion as we all (or most of us) travel to eat. Having huge meal portions may not be the best thing as we will be unable to try everything. Same goes with pricier restaurant/take out food. The level of English proficiency that the locals have is another factor and so is the number of activities/sights to see. The latter is important as travelling alone reduce the amount of time needed to stay at a place and a place is rank higher when there are sufficient to-dos.
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