Most flock to Greece for the ancient city of Athens and the beauty of the countless blue-white islands in the Aegean Sea. Being overlooked is the spellbinding destination of Meteora.
I only came to know of this amazing location from a Facebook video and it seems like the stars aligned since I was planning a Balkans trip as a graduation present to myself. I knew that I HAVE to see it for myself.
Hidden among Thessaly mountains, the rock formation is a natural and historical fascination. Its name literally means "suspended in the air", referring to the six monasteries perched atop the towering rockpillars. It hosts one of the largest and most precipitously built complexes of Greek Orthodox monasteries built in the Middle ages to avoid the invading Turks. So shift your gaze to this jaw dropping destination when you plan your visit to Greece. I can promise you that you won't regret visiting Meteora.
Plan Your Visit to the Monasteries
It's not a surprise that Meteora Monasteries became a UNESCO World Heritage List in 1988. The site is also home to various precious Byzantine artifacts and wall paintings being preserved by a small number of monks and nuns residing there. For example, the 1527 frescoes (paintings done rapidly in watercolour on wet plaster on a wall or ceiling) created by Theophanes. However, during WW2, the site was bombed and many art pieces were raided.
To avoid crowds, March to May and September to November would be ideal. However, it is still manageable in the summer. I visited Meteora in August during Summer. Yes, the sun was relentless but it isn't as bad due to the lower humidity. Just remember to block up every few hours and bring a large water bottle when you are on your hike.
Despite the 24 monasteries scattered around the mountains, only 6 are open to the public. Unfortunately, according to my guide, it seems that in the recent years, tourism has chased the monks to relocate themselves somewhere quieter. The remaining 6 are St. Nikolaos Anapafsas, Great Meteoron, Roussanou, Holy Trinity, Varlaam and St. Stephen’s. The sites vary in sizes and in visiting hours, depending on seasons. However, all charge a standard €3 entrance fee though kids (12 years old and below) can enter for free.
To get the most out of Meteora, this is a rough itinerary that I've planned during my 3D2N there.
DAY 1: Arrive at Kalambaka and check in at your accommodation. Grab a late lunch before waiting for your pickup to go for Meteora Sunset Tour for €35. The small-sized guided tour begins with a visit to one of the following monastery: St. Stephen or Holy Trinity (depending on the houring hours). Followed by the Byzantine church of Virgin Mary and the thousand years old hermitages of Bandovas. End the tour with the stunning sunset at Psaropetra view point or Varlaam view point. Head back after the 4 hours tour and get dinner at one of the taverns.
DAY 2: Spend the day exploring and hiking the wider area of Meteora. Fuel for the day by getting breakfast before taking the 9am bus ride up to Meteora to visit the first monastery of your choice. Alight at the furthermost or the most popular site, before making your way down to the village.
The hiking trails are generally pretty well outlined on the map even though for some, footpaths lead to a dead end. When that happens, just retrace your steps. Your accommodation may provide more detailed hiking maps or you can even download maps onto your phone, as that way you’ll always know where you generally are. For the easiest option if you are afraid of getting lost, is just following the asphalt road down.
If you want to learn about the sites' immense historical importance, join a guided tour to make your trip even more enlightening.
General Tips
Start your hike or day early to avoid the blazing sun and also in an attempt to avoid the tour buses. The most popular monasteries are Great Meteoron and Varlaam, so aim to head to these first before the others. You don't have to visit every site.
Dress code wise: women need to wear a long skirt, dress or sarong that is provided in most of the monasteries at the entrance. Shoulders should be covered too but they are not as strict on that aspect. For men, do cover your knees. These are still places of worship, so do be respectful at all times.
Either pack snacks or buy from food stalls near the parking areas as there are no eateries at the monasteries. If you can suppress the hunger, you can opt to have a quick meal at the village at the end of your hike. And of course the basics, bring sufficient water for the first part of the hike (you can refill your bottles at some monasteries) and sunblock, wear good walking shoes and a cap, and bring a map.
What (Else) to Do
Scrambling Tour - Natural beauty coupled with the sense of exhilaration as you embark on a one in a lifetime experience in Meteora. The tour will take you to the highest point at The Great Saint Rock. The guided tour includes basic climbing, traversing, abseiling and hiking.
Truffle Hunting - The Natural History Museum of Meteora and Mushroom Museum is put together an amazing experience where you go Truffle hunting under the rocks of Meteora. Truffles hunting with trained truffle dogs, having a truffle pasta lunch in the forest and testing mushroom products at the Museum are what you can expect.
Wine Tasting - Tsililis Winery and Distillery offers a visit to the Tsililis family's winery-distillery. Enjoy a few glasses of red wines, white wines, and rose wines, before finally moving on to tsipouro. The un-aged brandy is attributed to Greek Orthodox monks who started producing it back in the 14th century.
Where and What to Eat
For four generations, the family-run Meteora Restaurant have been feeding guests since 1925. Take a deep dive into traditional Greek food with slow-cooked stews, Greek salads, saganaki, mousaka and grilled vegetables. The homemade bread is also delicious; soft, fluffy and fragrant.
Another fantastic place to have dinner at is Taverna To Paramithi. The restaurant is located in the center of Kalambaka, giving you the views of the rocks while enjoying authethic dishes. Some things to try are Kolokithokeftedes (fried zucchini balls), tarama caviar salad to go with their homemade bread and the wild mountain mushrooms. During dinner, locals musicians may turn up with guitar and bouzouki, creating a lively environment to dine in. It is also the only place that brings seafood in from Volos. Fun fact: "Paramithi" is translated to "fairytale".
Restaurant Panellinio is a great place to grab a quick bite to eat, be it lunch or dinner. The staff are attentive and also, even able to communicate in simple Chinese! Though offering delicious cooked plates and grilled meat, it seems that the lamb chop with roast potatoes is their most famous dish.
If you are on a budget, pick up some spanakopita (feta and spinach pastry pie) and bread sticks from the local bakeries. Traditional homemade gyros (meat cooked on a vertical spit and served in a flat bread) from Food Factory or Chicken Time are affordable grab-and-go food. I got the chicken with fries gyro before leaving town.
Getting to Meteora from Athens
To Kalambaka By Train
Estimated Cost: €20-25
Heading to Kalambaka (town closest to Meteora) from Athens via train is extremely straight forward. Kalambaka train station is connected to the central railway station in Athens. Simply take the Metro Red Line to Larissa Station and board the train to Kalambaka. There is only one direct train which leaves Athens at 8.20 am (when I was there in 2018) and arrive at Kalambaka, which is the last stop, around 1:20 pm.
To Kalambaka By Bus
Estimated Cost: ~€30
As there are no direct bus from Athens to Kalambaka, you would have to transfer at Trikala. Take the bus bound for Trikala/Kalambaka from LIOSION 260 Bus Station at 260 Liosion Street. The bus timings can be found here. After a 5 hours bus ride, you will be asked to alight at Trikala where you will transfer to another bus bound for Kalambaka. The second bus ride will take about 30 minutes to an hour.
To Meteora from Kalambaka
Cost: €1.80 one-way, €3.30 round trip.
Good news! There is a local bus that will take you up to Meteora from Kalambaka during March-November. The bus will leave the town at 9 am, 12 noon and 3 pm. Alternatively, take a cab or hike up.
Solo Scorecard - 1
(1 - Perfect for Solo Travelling, 5 - Would not recommend for solo travellers)
Initially I was a little daunted at the thought of hiking the rock formations by myself and to visit a "non-touristy" location. However, I was pleasantly surprised by how straightforward it was to arrive and explore Meteora. Locals here are extremely friendly and accommodating, even the local stall vendors that will entertain your charades due to the language barrier. The town itself is compact, making a stroll around town extremely doable. Food is plenty with all the taverns around and inexpensive so you can eat to your heart's content after a whole day of monastery visiting.
If you are looking for an accommodation, Meteora Central Hostel was where I stayed and I cannot recommend this place enough. The hosts were so welcoming and helpful; providing maps and useful tips for the hike, offering me a complimentary mountain tea before I left the hostel. The rooms are clean, nice private dorm beds with a storage pocket for you to keep small items in, and an extremely homely vibe to it.
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