Greece's second largest city is often overlooked; frequently outshone by Athens and the Aegean Islands. Yet the open air museum, scattered with remains of three empires — the Romans, the Byzantines and the Ottomans, is a vibrant university town that is perfect for history lovers and solo travelers.
Day One
No better way to start your explorations than at local markets. Kapani Market and Modiano Market are a stone throw away from each other and are heaving with local produce. Spices, coffee, meat, dates are only a small portion of what these traditional markets have to offer. Tavernas are aplenty should your tummy start growling from a travel morning. If you want to check out stores displaying and selling vibrant flowers, head to the Louloudadika Flower Market. Well located near Byzantine remains and the food market, the flower market is definitely a fitting splash of colour against the concrete city of Thessaloniki.
Time to walk off your lunch and snacks. Thessaloniki Free Walking Tour provides visitors with two different walking tour - city centre and the upper town. My guide was extremely accommodating and even offered me his mosquito repellent when we were waiting for others to join the tour. Thessaloniki is swarming with them mozzies, spray up!
Tip: Check out their website for free events around the city!
Just 15 minutes away from Aristotelous Square, Ano Poli (Upper Town) colourful walls is a stark contrast from its much paler city centre. Learn about how the Upper Town escaped the Great Thessaloniki Fire of 1917 as you take a leisurely stroll within the Byzantine walls above the main town. Stops included the UNESCO Aghios Nikolaos Orfanos church and Trigonio Tower where you can catch the sunset over a sweeping view of the bay.
Agios Pavlos near the upper city walls is a lively and bohemian place with a great nightlife that is not swarming with tourists. Continue your stroll around the area after the walking tour before grabbing dinner in one of the taverns. Το Πρυτανείο was recommended by my guide. The cosy space offers traditional Greek food and are nice enough to provide complimentary water and a shot of vodka to kick start the meal!
Spend your first evening at a bouzouki club for an unforgettable night with new found friends! Live entertainment are often accompanied by the traditional Greek instrument and locals are sure to be singing along. If your preference is something more hip, Nikis Street, Valaoritou Street and Ladadika district are popular amongst local youths.
Alternatively, if you are feeling fancy. Start your evening city discovery and taste delicious Greek wines at a hidden bar with a special tour by Epiculiar. The tour brings you around Thessaloniki with a local as they share stories and memories of the city while indulging in a restobar. You'll even get to enjoy art spaces and entertainment with an original Greek drink in hand. Of course, the tour don't come cheap so it is really up to you and your interest!
Day Two
One important aspect of Thessaloniki's identity is the seafront. Begin your morning walk from Pier A, home to modern venues such as the Thessaloniki Cinema Museum, the Thessaloniki Center of Contemporary Art and the Thessaloniki Museum of Photography. If there is time, have breakfast at Kitchen Bar as you watch the waves come in.
Continue south and you'll find the iconic White Tower, a well known landmark fortress and former prison which now hosts a historic exhibition. Do note that no more than 75 visitors are allowed within a given time slot (8.30 am-3 pm daily except Monday, free entrance). You can get a view of the Gulf from the 34m above ground viewing platform before strolling down the wooden boardwalk of Nea Paralia (New Waterfront).
Continue the lovely stroll down the port until the Zongolopoulos Umbrella sculpture, another Thessaloniki icon, and the statue of Alexander the Great before turning back. You can also take one of Thessaloniki’s free harbour cruises. These depart regularly throughout the day from next to the White Tower, offering an hour’s tour. The only condition is to buy an overpriced drink onboard. Great activity at night when the boats are blasting Greek music.
Window shop on your way back at the main shopping street of Tsimiski. Lined with designer stores, boutiques, independent Greek shops and cafes to rest your tired feet, just take your pick of how you would like to spend the afternoon.
Head back to the city centre where there are still so much more to see. The Byzantine churches of Agia Sofia and Agios Dimitrios, Alaca Imaret Mosque, Eleftheria Square, Yeni Tzami... The list goes on!
Hungry from all the exploring? Fret not. Thessaloniki's centre is brimming with eateries serving great pizzas, calzones, club sandwiches and toasts for ~2€. Craving for crepes? Navarino Square is your place to go. At Aristotelous Square, street vendors will be selling their products next to cafés and ouzo tavernas. Delve back into the historic Ladadika District for traditional taverns along Karipi Street.
Hit the hay early before your long journey to Albania or Macedonia, or even south to Athens. Alternatively, you can always end your last night singing along with locals at rooftop bars with live performances and entertainment.
What to Eat
Koulori: Thessaloniki is said to be the birthplace to the Greek sesame bread rings. The healthy snack is usually coated with sesame seeds to give a flavourful bite and costs only 50 cents euro. There are also larger, thinner rings which are crispier than its chewy yet smaller counterparts. I've chanced upon different flavours such as cheddar and filled Koulori. The popular breakfast is sold on street corners, bakeries and little stands located in squares.
Bougatsa: The city’s cream-filled breakfast pastries are filled with custard, minced meat or cheese. The flaky pie is served crisp and chopped bite sized pieces. Places to try: Bantis, Giannis, Milkakis and Terkenlis. The latter is more of a chain bakery than a specialty shop with the offerings such as loukoumi (turkish delight), tsoureki (sweet holiday bread) and trigona panoramatos (triangular phyllo custard puffs).
Spanakopita: More pies! The spinach pie is a popular Greek savoury pie made with spinach, sweet sauteed onions and crumbled feta cheese wrapped inside a phyllo dough. Sounds so yummy already. The comforting filling of cheese and spinach together with the buttery crust make this pie a perfect grab and go meal. They’re sold at bakeries on Ermou street.
CHOUREÁL: The made to order Profiteroles are always fresh and tailored to the visitor’s desire. Either filled with Madagascar vanilla cream or hand-made ice cream, you can choose between dark or white chocolate and other toppings for your sweet treat! Traditional sweets, pies, snacks, coffee and also salads and ready meals are available here. I only came across this bakery when researching, and I'm so mad that I didn't get to try the profiteroles!
Extend Your Stay
Museum-Hopping: Museum lovers will not find a lack of museums to visit in Thessaloniki, second largest Greek city with plenty of museums for everyone. For the culture vultures; Museum of Byzantine Culture, Folklife & Ethnological Museum of Macedonia, Macedonian Museum of Contemporary Art and State Museum of Contemporary Art. History buffs can visit the Archaeological Museum, White Tower Museum, Archaeological Museum of Roman Forum, Balkan Wars Museum, and Olympic Museum. Quirky ones such as Water Museum and Railway Museum can be fun to visit. FYI - I'm barely scratching the surface with this list...
Thessaloniki Train Cemetery: On the outskirts of Thessaloniki are hundreds of abandoned railroad cars, rusting away for decades. Great photo op place. Bus 51, 54 and 54A leaves from the Thessaloniki train station towards the cemetery. Get off after the E90 highway and walk the last few hundred meters.
Halkidiki: The popular holiday destination of northern Greece is the picturesque peninsula further divided into three legs. The first leg, Kassandra, is the most developed with resorts and tourist activities. The second leg, Sithoni, is less organised and more secluded while the third, Athos is a close monastic community where entrance is only permitted to a few men. The Greek Island offered exceptional white-sand beaches and iconic turquoise Greek waters as you bask in the sun or ride a bike around the majestic mountains. KTEL buses provides transportation to the peninsula. However, a shuttle service or a rental car would be most ideal to make the most out of your stay.
Pozar Thermal Baths: Journey to the natural hot springs of Pozar Thermal Baths and relax in the healing waters while nature and Mount Voras provide a stunning backdrop. Amidst steep rocks and natural waterfalls, you are sure to relax in the soothing waters. Ammon Express provides transfers to Pozar (1.5 hours drive, ~45€).
Dion & Mount Olympus: Depart from Thessaloniki and head to the archaeological park of Dion. Take some free time to explore the exterior archaeological site, enjoying a trip back in history. Admire the ancient theater of Dion, known for hosting the plays of the ancient philosopher Euripides, now host to the Olympus Festival. Walk the Enipeas gorge of Mount Olympus near Litochoro village. A day trip is more feasible should you not have a car.
Lake Kerkini: The artificial reservoir that was created in 1932 is home to 300 species of birds and rare animals. Among the many species, admire the beautiful flamingos and the magnificent buffalos that walk near you on this wetland that is 1.5 hour drive from Thessaloniki. All these are combined with the wonderful view of Mount Beles and the majestic valley of Serres. Perfect for birdwatchers.
How To Get To Thessaloniki
From Athens: Train options range from slow trains (15€, 6 hours) and fast train (50 € , ~4.5 hours). Bus from the bus terminal will take 6 hours to Thessaloniki and cost 35 € one way, 55 € return. Be at the termninal 30 minutes before departing to purchase your tickets as pre-booking is not available. For further information please contact ktelgr@otenet.gr
From Meteora:
For train tickets, purchase them at Train OSE (15.40€ to 29.50€). At Kalampaka Railway station, take a direct train to Thessaloniki (~3 hours). Indirect trains with a switch at Palaeofarsalos are also available (~4 hours). Personally, I used KTEL to take a bus from Kalampaka to Thessaloniki (20.40€, 4 hours). The bus will arrive to Trikala and leave for Thessaloniki 40-45 minutes later.
Once in Thessaloniki, purchase your tickets from the kiosk outside the bus station. Remember to punch your ticket stub into the orange machines at the door!
Solo Scorecard - 2 (1 - Perfect for Solo Travelling, 5 - Would not recommend for solo travellers)
With a multicultural history, ruins, landmarks and museums, the company town with the blue water of the of the Aegean Sea has a lot to offer. I felt safe the whole time there (except against mozzies but that's besides the point) and it is hard to get lost as everything is within good proximity. Plenty of activities to partake in and have fun. Locals aren't the friendliness but they do understand and speak English. I get that Thessaloniki isn't exciting as Athens but give it a shot will ya?
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